Casing calculator
How-to

How to install door casing, miter by miter

Casing a door is a two-hour job once you have the rhythm. The secret is not the saw; it is the reveal line on the jamb and fitting one piece at a time to the door you actually have.

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. How this site earns. We have not tested these products; see how we choose.

Updated October 12, 2026Research based, not hands-on testing

OPENING3/16 IN REVEALPENCIL MARKS ON JAMB EDGE45 DEG MITERDETAIL / THE REVEALCasing set back from the jamb edge
Fig. 1 The reveal: casing set back 3/16 in from the jamb edge, marked with pencil dashes that meet at the corner.

Short answer

Mark a 3/16 in reveal on the jamb edge all the way around. Cut the head first: its short points sit on the reveal marks, so it is the opening width plus two reveals, mitered 45 degrees at each end. Tack it up. Then miter one end of each leg, fit it to the head, mark the length at the floor, cut, glue the miter and nail. Fill, caulk and paint.

Tools and supplies

  • Miter saw a fine-tooth blade, checked for squareFind it
  • Brad nailer and 18 gauge brads or hammer and 4d finish nailsFind it
  • Combination square set to 3/16 in to mark the revealFind it
  • Wood glue for the miter jointsFind it
  • Wood filler and paintable caulk for nail holes and wall gapsFind it

Before you cut

Step by step

  1. Mark the reveal

    Set a combination square to 3/16 in and make pencil dashes on the jamb edge every foot or two, all the way around. Make sure the dashes meet at the two top corners: those points are where the miters land.

  2. Measure the head

    Measure across the opening between the side jambs and add two reveals. On a 36 in opening with a 3/16 in reveal, that is 36-3/8 in, measured on the short points of the miters.

  3. Cut and tack the head

    Cut 45 degree miters at both ends with the thick outer edge against the fence, so the short points are 36-3/8 in apart in that example. Hold it on the reveal marks and tack it with a few nails, leaving the heads slightly proud for adjustment.

  4. Miter the legs

    Cut a 45 degree miter on the top of each leg, leaving it long. Hold it in place with its miter tight to the head and its inner edge on the reveal marks, then mark where it meets the floor and cut it square there.

  5. Glue and nail the legs

    Spread glue on the miter end grain, align the joint, and nail the leg to the jamb every 12 to 16 in along the reveal line, then along the outer edge into the framing.

  6. Pin the miters

    Set the nails left proud on the head. A brad driven across the top of each miter, from the head into the leg, keeps the joint from opening.

  7. Fill, caulk and paint

    Fill the nail holes, caulk the gap between casing and wall (not the reveal), and paint. Sand filler flush before painting.

DETAIL / HEAD CASINGWhere to measure a mitered headLONG POINT TO LONG POINTSHORT POINT TO SHORT POINT45SHORT = OPENING + 2 REVEALSLONG = SHORT + 2 CASING WIDTHS
Fig. 2 Short point to short point equals the opening plus two reveals. Cut with the thick edge against the fence.

Fixing common problems

ProblemLikely causeFix
Miter open at the frontDrywall proud of the jambCrush or shave the drywall near the corner
Miter open at the backJamb proud of the wallBack-cut the miter slightly or shim behind the casing
Miter open at the top or bottomHead jamb out of levelRecut one leg a hair long or short, or adjust the angle
Leg bows off the wallTwisted board or hollow wallNail into framing; swap a bad board
Split at the endNail too close to the endPre-drill or move the nail; MDF edges are brittle

Steps follow Fine Homebuilding and the Home Depot installation guide. Butted craftsman heads are covered in craftsman door trim; corner blocks in rosettes and plinth blocks. Finish with how to paint door trim.

Questions people ask

What is the reveal on door casing?

The small strip of jamb edge left showing between the casing and the inside of the jamb. Fine Homebuilding and the Home Depot installation guide both use 3/16 inch as typical. It hides small irregularities in the jamb and gives a crisp shadow line.

Do you install the head or the legs first?

For mitered casing, many carpenters install the head first, then fit each leg to it. Fine Homebuilding tacks the head with nails left slightly proud, so it can be adjusted while fitting the legs.

What nails do you use for door casing?

Fine Homebuilding tacks casing to the jamb with 4d finish nails. With a nail gun, 18 gauge brads into the jamb edge and longer 15 or 16 gauge finish nails through the outer edge into the framing are a common combination.

How do I fix a miter that will not close?

Check that the jamb and wall are flush. If the drywall stands proud, the miter opens at the front; shave or crush the drywall near the corner. If it opens at the back, back-cut the miter slightly. A thin shim behind one piece can also bring a miter flush.

Sources

  1. Fine Homebuilding, Case a door with mitered trim
  2. The Home Depot, door casing installation guide (PDF)

Last reviewed October 12, 2026. Profiles, sizes and listings change; check the product details before you buy, and follow the maker’s instructions.